Remember the Iron Kettle Farm from Day 14 and Day 15? My goal today was to reach the home of George and Sheri. Their son Daren is married to Bonnie, one of Skip and Jeannie’s children. When Skip and I were discussing my route on the morning of Day 15 he had suggested that it might be possible at least to camp out on the property of George and Sheri when I got that far. They live near Penn Yan (Pennsylvanians and Yankees — seriously).
So last night Skip phoned George and left a message about this crazy guy that could use a place to stay. George called back in the morning and got the scoop on me and agreed at least to meet me. As an aside here, let me just say how wonderful has been the way I’ve been cared for by Skip. He loaded me up with food when I left his farm, he has checked in with me by phone. He had some cookies for me the next day but missed me on the road by just a few minutes. And he arranged this meeting with George. Even though we are pretty close in age I have experienced him like a father.
Anyway, I set out this morning with a 21-mile walk ahead of me and I was determined to complete it, as I had no other viable options on the way. I asked Carol at the front desk if there was a breakfast place nearby and she mentioned the Crossing Diner “just” five miles north. I thought five miles would be a good first break so I set off.
I passed many wineries, like this one for wine snobs, immediately next to the motel:
A little further along I scared a gaggle of Canada geese:
State Road 14 was very straight:
Remember this later when I go on and on about curvy roads. I walked for many miles with Seneca Lake on my right and countless beautiful scenes like these, with grapes everywhere.
Not only was there many a winery, there was even one wienery:
Eventually I reached the Crossing Diner, hungry as a horse. I love little diners like this where everyone seems to know everyone else. It wasn’t long before the staff knew what I was up to. When I had finished the delicious food, Tara, the owner, told me that the breakfast was on the house — wow! Here’s Heidi (Tara’s daughter), Katie (who has New Jersey roots!) and Tara:
Another random shot down to the lake:
Finally after maybe eight miles, I finally got to turn off onto curvy roads:
There was even more color (and grapes) in this new section of the walk:
More curviness:
More color:
Away from the lake now, grapes became fewer, though the land was rich for crops, some of it owned by Mennonite folk who have an increasing presence in the area:
It was just quintessential autumn harvest time, with farmers doing what they do; cutting:
raking:
and drying:
By the time I had done about 18 miles I was getting pretty weary, but not so much that a little sumac couldn’t clamor for my camera’s attention:
Just when I felt that I was almost there, I dutifully followed the google maps directions to make a right and this is what I saw:
Could I pass or not? If I decided not to go down this path it would add a couple of miles to my already long day. I walked down to the end of the short road:
Shades of my mini-adventure on Day 3! I didn’t want to go down what was obviously a hill and then have to push all the way back up again because of an impassable barrier. There were two houses, one to either side of that depressing sign. No answer at one but a woman at the other said it was fine for walking. I ventured down the path to the river:
and came to an easily surmountable barrier:
The stream was not otherwise crossable:
I later learned that this stream is high because of a controlled lowering of Lake Keuka for the winter. On the way up out of the stream’s valley I got to this hill, which was pretty well as steep as anything I have encountered so far:
By this time it was getting dark (with clouds, not setting sun), rain was threatening, and the cold wind was picking up. I was soon in sight of my goal up on the hill:
George welcomed me into his beautiful house and it was a blessed relief to rest my weary feet. Sheri was out of the house on a family matter but came back later after George had fed me a delicious dinner, set me up in a spacious bedroom and allowed me to have a hot shower. This is George and Sheri:
I had a long chat with George and learned all about his Danish roots. He has essentially lived in this house for his entire life, and his roots in that area go back two generations. He was a dairy farmer but retired from that and now looks after three mentally handicapped wards of the state, who live in his house. George and Sheri are amazing, sacrificial, loving people, and I feel very privileged to have gotten to know them a little this evening.
Allan, so glad you made it to Penn Yan safely. You have been really racking up the miles!! I knew you would find a good spot for the night if you could make it to Daren’s dad’s house. Hopefully you got a good nights rest and the rain will pass before you have to start out again. We all have been following you every day. Keep up the good work!
I had a great night’s sleep, Bonnie. You have wonderful in-laws. I’m sorry that I didn’t get a chance to meet Daren when I was at the farm. It was a long day yesterday; George saw how crippled I was 15 minutes after I stopped walking and helped me get my feet off the ground for a little while. But this morning all the pain has passed and I’m ready to go again. I’m going to do a shorter walk today, after going to church with him.
Congratulations on picking up the pace yesterday Al – and still getting some great shots.
I like the tractor shots and the winding roads – maybe collect all the roads into a collage when you finish – keep those coming.
You can’t go wrong taking some comfort from the blind boys of Alabama. Popularized on the wire. (i prefer Tom Waits own version, but he’s not for everyone. The wire had a different cover each season of this song so a few to pick from. Hard to say why I like Tom waits voice but check it out some time. He’s got a great love song to his Jersey girl and long time partner and wife.)
“if you walk with Jesus
he’s gonna save your soul”
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mzIuUW9VUr0&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DmzIuUW9VUr0
Blind Boys of Alabama rule! Great choice, Carl, as always.
This is one of my favourites so far for some reason. I think it’s a combo of the photos and the fact that your people interactions seem to be getting richer and richer as you go along. Way to go on the long slog! Zoe is currently blowing kisses at the screen for you 🙂
I feel very blessed by the people I’m meeting. It continually amazes me how kind and generous they are to a perfect stranger. I just blew Zoe a hug, if that’s possible.
Allan,
In terms of the photos, storyline of risks, adventure, “will he make it?” this was my favourite post. I loved the progressive Canada Geese shots and the wonderful views of Seneca Lake. George and Sheri are the soul of American hospitality. There are 1000s of them all over the place which makes me marvel anew.
Russell
I just couldn’t capture the beauty of walking along Seneca Lake, though I tried. Even from George and Sheri’s house I can still see the hills on the other side of the lake, though I can’t see the water. George says the water of Lake Keuka is visible — will check it out shortly. As for hospitality, I can’t begin to describe what it felt like to be in the blustery cold, wet wind, toiling uphill after 21 miles of walking, skies almost dark with heavy cloud and to walk into this beautiful, warm, loving household, welcomed by George and his three charges.
Hi Allan,
I am a friend of Marnie of Ottawa and she gave me the link to your blog because she knows I love to follow the adventures of those on pilgrimages. I am very much enjoying reading about your days and seeing the wonderful photos each morning. Though you may find some days difficult and feel loneliness on the road, when you have finished your pilgrimage you will remember most, the people you met , the beauty you witnessed and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of each day. Buen Camino !
I welcome you to my little adventure, Michele (I apologize for leaving off the accent grave — I just don’t know how to do it on my keyboard). You speak as if you yourself may have done such a long walk — perhaps Santiago de Compostela?
Hi Allan,
Yes, Santiago I did, 70 days walking from Puy-en-Velay in France, 5 years ago now. But I am not sure I could walk alone with little human contact during the day and on roadways. On the Camino, there were lots of other pilgrims and I was with a friend. There were some days that we saw practically no one but evenings were always with others. So you have my admiration.
Wow — that is fantastic Michele. 70 days is a big committment. I wonder how much companionship there is on the Appalachian Trail.
On the Camino I met an American man from Chicago who walked the whole Appalachian trail. It took him six months and he had to tent a lot because it is not set up like the Camino with hostels every 10 km. He said he went days seeing not a soul.
Yes, I have been thinking a number of times of the Appalachian Trail — it seems so much harder than what I am doing. You can look on their website and it is amazing how many actually finish the entire walk.
Very suspenceful. I have to confess I skipped ahead to the end to see if you made it or not! Continue to enjoy each step and post. I am curious to to see how you feel after a 21 mile day. Do you need the chriopravtor again?
Shame on you, Joe, for skipping to the end! I was pretty sore at the end of that march. My feet were fine but my legs, especially my left leg, felt taut and bruised. This morning I feel great again. Amazing what a good night’s sleep can do. I’m going to do a shortish walk today, I think; currently I’m planning 9 miles to a motel.
Doc,
First one word…. WOW! Second…. I love how the Lord is just answering prayer along the way… Unfolding each foot fall, each mile, each hour of your walk before you. Truly HE is lighting your path along the way…. In a way HE is using this to show us all what prayer can do. For instance, I was praying he would sustain you and keep you safe even the more so as the day wore on… And then here you were.. Unknown to us what was going on. And HE answered prayer and gave you the courage and the strength
of mind to figure out how to get around this major obstruction in your path… PTL! Thank you my brother and yes another day before you.
One more thing… The USAs history is filled with stories of forced marches.. Your day yesterday gets added to that story…. And even though its well almost a well worn phrase by now…. Press on…. JIM 🙂
I was thinking about forced marches, Jim. They must have often been MUCH longer than even my longest day. I just can’t imagine how hard that must have been.
I tried to follow your progress and guess your route/stopping place looking for someplace to “book” for you so you wouldn’t sleep in the cold. I’m so relieved to see that you found fellowship, friendship, food and rest last night. What a BLESSED adventure you are having and such wonderful colorful people on your way. Friendly Americans are out there – and often the gift of hospitality is passed down through friends and family – we’re praying those connections will continue – looking at the map, you have traveled an AMAZING distance. I believe you will find much JOY in reliving your journal and pictures. Safe travels today Dear Friend.
You guys are awesome — thanks for all the support!
Hi Allan,
I have been following your adventure since day three and have come to look forward to your daily updates. I am especially touched by all of the comments left. The thought of so many people praying for you and supporting you along the way is moving. The kindness shown from strangers is humbling too. As a Sandy survivor, I can tell you that when someone you don’t know reaches out and does something kind for you, your soul is forever touched.
I totally agree, Tracy. It really is an overwhelming experience; I’ve been moved many times on this trip.
Hi Allan I thought all the Candian geese were over here by now, we certainly have plenty about Golspie
Believe me, Fiona, we have LOTS more Canada geese that you do in Golspie — they are pests!
Hi my friend,
We are enjoying your adventure 100%. My sister Marianella is following it in Venezuela as well. Praying for you and thankking God for what He is doing through you.
Keep it up!
Excellent! Has Marianella made any observations that I should know about? Thanks for your prayer, Ricardo.
Gracious, what a long and weary day! And what a wonderful end to the day! It’s no wonder that God’s Word says so much about showing hospitality – a blessing for the giver and the receiver 😀 (If you were walking in the Pacific Northwest we could offer you some ourselves, but we’re waaaay off your course!)
Julie G
Agreed, Julie, both about hospitality and about your putting me up when I walk across America (NOT). But thanks for the offer!
Your photo of the whinery for pompous people reminded me of this sign that we passed a few years ago on the way to a remote location in MO:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24774692@N00/4144875127/lightbox/
We got a good laugh over that and a good laugh over yours.
When you crossed the bridge that was closed, what was on the other side?
It looked like a healthy smoke stack from a bygone building was there, perhaps a powerhouse?
Great companion pic, Gus! I learned from George that that building was an old paper mill. You can just see the smokestack in the picture but there was also a tumble-down building there.
Hi Allan,
I see that you passed near the town of Dundee today. My grandfather grew up there, sorry, it was so long ago I have no relations in the area that could have offered you a place to stay. In conjunction with some Australian roots this led to a strange family affection for the Crocodile Dundee movies. On a different topic you should be right in the neighborhood of 1,000 comments, I didn’t go back and add them all up, but another interesting milestone on an interesting journey.
John
725 comments so far (including my own replies) — 656 approved. I do get a pile of spam comments. You must tell me about your Australian roots when I get home.
Hi Allan, I agree with Micheles thoughts and philosophy of your travels. The story you have woven for your readers and new friends along your journey are going to be worth more then all the riches in this world. You are cementing a rich tapestry of friends through conversation and awesome pictures of nature ( I particularly love the geese and the lake pictures, also the trees ) These memories will be great for you and Fiona to reflect on over the years with your children and grandchildren.
PS I also apologize for not being able to find the accent mark over Micheles name. If anyone can teach me I would love to know .
Yes, it will be great to talk to our grandchildren about this!